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Isabel Toledo


Isabel Toledo by Kathy Willens/Associated Press
Isabel Toledo by Kathy Willens/Associated Press

I remember the moment Michelle Obama stepped out in that lemongrass dress and coat ensemble at the 2009 inauguration. The fashion world buzzed with excitement, but what struck me wasn't just the impeccable design - it was the quiet confidence of its creator, Isabel Toledo.


While other designers chased the spotlight, she moved through the fashion world like a master architect, more interested in the engineering of a sleeve than the flash of a runway show. Born in Cuba and arriving in New Jersey as a teenager, she learned to sew by taking apart old garments and studying their construction. Think about that for a moment - before she created anything new, she understood how things came undone.



Michelle Obama in Isabel Toledo
Michelle Obama in Isabel Toledo


Some called her approach "romantic mathematics." She could spend months perfecting the drape of a dress, treating fabric like a living thing that needed to be understood, not conquered. In an industry obsessed with the next big thing, Isabel remained fascinated by the timeless puzzle of how to make clothes move with a woman's body, not against it.


I think about Isabel when I see fast fashion dominating our world. She never rushed a design, never compromised on construction, never treated clothing as disposable. Each piece she created was a lesson in patience, in respect for materials and makers alike. "Fashion is every woman's language," she once said, but she made sure it was the workers' language too.


Her sudden passing in 2019 left a void in fashion that feels different from other losses. We didn't just lose a designer - we lost someone who proved that you could succeed in fashion while maintaining your humanity, your principles, and your sense of wonder. Someone who understood that true luxury isn't about brand names or price tags - it's about the care, thought, and respect woven into every stitch.


Isabel Toledo fashion on the runway
Isabel Toledo fashion on the runway

When I look at an Isabel Toledo piece now, I don't just see the visible design - I see the invisible architecture of kindness she built: the pattern makers she mentored, the seamstresses whose children went to college because of her fair wages, the young designers who learned that success doesn't have to mean selling your soul.


In an industry that often seems to have lost its way, Isabel Toledo showed us another path. One where beauty and ethics weren't competing forces, but natural partners in the creation of something lasting. Something real.

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